I was woken this morning by the chuntering of a two-carriage train at the station below our bedroom window. St […]
Leaving Ladakh
I’ve chosen to remember our last days in Ladakh like this Although to be quite honest there was also a […]
Sham Valley
When we arrived back at Nimmu House an elderly woman was making her way around the outside of the building […]
Back in Leh
Ok. You’ve just arrived in Leh, you’re looking at the mad traffic, the cows in the street, the languid dogs, […]
Gompas
Both P and I were up with the sunrise this morning for a last look from our patio, as the […]
Hemis Festival
In the late 19th century a Crimean adventurer called Nicholas Notovitch broke his leg while visiting Ladakh and was taken […]
Down
It’s been a lovely homestay. Last night we assembled, as always in the front room for supper, joined by four […]
Kongmaru-La
Day five of the Markha Valley trek takes you up to the Kongmaru-La pass at 5,260M or 17,250 feet in […]
Up
The Markha Valley trek has actually been relatively gentle with us so far, even though it hasn’t always felt like […]
Hankar
It’s amazing what a bit of sleep can do. We actually felt more or less ready to walk to Hankar […]
The Magic Bus 