We’ve been parked in an almost deserted campsite for the past few days so P can catch up with some work stuff via Starlink (or “Starnielink” as I insist on calling it). The rain has been hammering down and we read that parts of Austria north of us have been badly flooded. The season ends here in a couple of weeks and we are surrounded by empty caravans which have been made more or less permanent with wooden porches and additional roofing. One or two owners are bringing in barbecues and awnings and getting ready for winter. The first taste of it came in the evening as we were eating in the Rifugio across the road which was already braced for cold weather.

We emerged to see this off-season ski-resort was already dressing for the part.

The temperature fell to zero overnight and the peaks around us were left newly frosted in the morning.

We set off west and the snow came and went as we tackled the Marmolada Pass.

It didn’t last long. As we descended, the strips of snow at the roadside melted away, the sun came out and cast a chilly glow over everything. Winter may not yet have arrived, but it has its foot in the door.